This National Day, we can all feel proud that our multi-cultural mix is what gives our culinary talents the edge in pushing the boundaries
From left: Chef Seth Lai, Ce Soir; Chef Lee Boon Seng, Imbue; Chef Nicolas Tam, Willow; and Chef Javier Low, Iru Den at Lau Pa Sat hawker centre
Singapore may comprise a multi-cultural mix, but there is one custom that unites us all: our constant pursuit for good food, whether behind the stove or at the dining table.
The late celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain was in awe when he said, “Singapore is possibly the most food-centric place on Earth… The hawker centres are… wonderlands of Chinese, Indian, and Malay specialties.”
Roasted ducks and chickens on display at Lau Pa Sat, a national monument reflective of Singapore’s rich hawker heritage
A number of these hawkers are now earning their own Michelin credentials or inspiring many chefs to take a leaf from their books, while preserving our heritage.
In turn, some of our proudest works of art in the restaurant scene have been adapted from such local food gems. Labyrinth, hailed as the world’s first New Singaporean restaurant with the Michelin star, serves a tongue-in-cheek “no bak chor, no mee” version with squid from our Jurong Fishery Port.
Since decades ago, pioneers like culinary doyenne Violet Oon have spearheaded the preservation of our gastronomic heritage, helping to put this little red dot on the map. In a New York Times review by Justin Bergman, dated 18 March 2013, it wrote, "Before Joël Robuchon, Guy Savoy and Daniel Boulud came… the country had its own homegrown celebrity chef — Violet Oon, sometimes referred to as the Julia Child of Singapore."
As our culinary scene evolved, chefs started to take our traditional food and create dishes with influences from them. In 2005, Chef Willin Low coined the term “mod-Sin” (modern Singaporean) cuisine to better represent his menu at Wild Rocket. This term “mod-Sin” is now widely used among chefs in Singapore in search of their own voice and identity for a cuisine to call our own.
Chef Kevin Wong of Seroja (Credit: Seroja)
In this city state, the kitchen sees a melting pot of cultural customs, shaped by local and global influences, to truly become one.
We also see numerous top international chefs lured here to join our flourishing wine and dine scene. As foreign chefs make Singapore their home, an exchange of culinary knowledge and culture arises, and our next gen chefs benefit most from this.
Chef Julien Royer of the three Michelin-starred French restaurant, Odette, for example, has mentored numerous up-and-coming chefs, including Chef Kevin Wong during the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition in 2021. The latter emerged in the top three, having also been a protégé of Chef Sun Kim at the two Michelin-starred Meta for five years; Chef Kevin is now Chef-owner of the Michelin-starred Seroja.
This article highlights four chefs from The Culinaire’s List, including Chef Kevin, who have been capitalising and pushing the boundaries of our rich and unique culinary heritage.
Chef Nicolas Tam of Willow
In recent years, Chef Nicolas Tam of Willow burst onto the local fine dining scene like a shooting star, but he reveals, “It is not easy because we don’t have the foreigner appeal.” He adds, “Being young, and looking young, doesn’t help (instil confidence) either.”
While he cut his teeth at Joël Robuchon, Esora and Zén, the 34-year-old chef’s resolution is to be true to himself.
“In Singapore, if you want to learn, there are lots of international chefs, opportunities and exposure. Such exposure helps our Singaporean talent to evolve the local culinary scene.”
Constantly challenging himself, Chef Nicolas earned his first Michelin star just one year after opening Willow in 2022.
Chef Javier Low of Iru Den (Credit: Iru Den)
For 32-year-old Chef-owner Javier Low of Iru Den, who is a Shatec graduate, early years with the esteemed Iggy’s laid a strong foundation.
Before Iru Den, he started his gastronomic entrepreneurship with Il Den. The Business Times’ Lifestyle Editor Jaime Ee, well-known for her food reviews, called him out for helming “The hole-in-the-wall restaurant (that) is fast gaining cult appeal with its well-executed cuisine.” After shutting Il Den, he started the roomier Iru Den in 2021.
Chef Javier’s biography says he is “a product of an ever-evolving Southeast Asian landscape”, while his cuisine “transcends geographical boundaries, embracing a global perspective that defies limits.”
He illustrates his offerings as “a cuisine of discovery that seamlessly integrates diverse cultures”.
For Chef Nicolas, he simply says, “I love seafood, just like many of us. I use quite a lot of Japanese produce from the sea, my (culinary) background is French, but I add the Singaporean touch to it.”
The no-nonsense chef’s philosophy is heart-warmingly colloquial: “好吃就好”, which means “it’s good as long as it’s tasty”.
He goes on to share, “My seafood are top-grade auction quality. We bid against restaurants selling sushi and sashimi, but I cook them. Some have called me crazy.”
Willow’s seasonal fish, Sakuradai, paired with crunchy canola blossoms and lily bulb purée (Credit: Willow)
Besides this relentless pursuit for perfection, the prevalent access to the Internet in Singapore has also helped him to constantly level up. “I read a lot and watch a lot of YouTube (videos on cooking). I wasn’t trained in a Japanese restaurant, but YouTube has taught me Japanese techniques.”
Just like how he doesn’t mince his words, his creations pack a punch and are inspired by familiarities.
Amadai fish being oil-blanched at Willow (Credit: Willow)
His signature Amadai fish is finished with Chinkiang (Zhejiang) black vinegar – its thick soup base cooked with dried scallops and doused with vinegar is a take on shark’s fin soup, without the shark’s fin.
Ce Soir’s Chef-Owner Seth Lai came to Singapore when he was just seven and started working in the kitchen before his national service. He tells us how he likes the open society of Singapore, “There’s no boundary in my cooking.”
He was a 27-year-old chef at 28 Wilkie in 2021, when he was likely the youngest in Singapore to receive a Michelin star – retained in 2022 and 2023. He also clinched the Young Chef Award in the recent Michelin Guide 2024.
Chef Seth Lai of Ce Soir selecting produce at a local market
One of his sources of inspiration would be the local wet markets, where he may find new pairings for his European ingredients.
Chef Lee Boon Seng of Imbue (Credit: Imbue)
Likewise, Chef Lee Boon Seng of Imbue moved to Singapore when he was 17 and built his entire culinary career here. In 2015, Chef Lee won the prestigious Global Chef Challenge as the youngest chef to be selected in the Singapore team.
Roots cocktail from Imbue, made with Rémy Martin 1738, Baijiu, Mijiu, chrysanthemum, unexpectedly matched with torched turnip (Credits: Imbue)
He launched Imbue in November 2023 as a deep exploration of Asian flavours underpinned by European cooking. Even its cocktails and mocktails are infused with unexpected ingredients from around the world.
“Cooking in Singapore has been a cornerstone of my culinary journey. Working alongside chefs from diverse backgrounds has also enriched my understanding of flavours and techniques. The opportunities to learn and grow at esteemed establishments like OSIA and Curate have been truly humbling,” he shares.
Just like many other local chefs, Singapore’s tapestry of influences stirs his own culinary inventions.
“Drawing inspiration from Singapore's melting pot of cuisines, I've managed to craft a style that blends Western precision with my Chinese heritage. I find profound joy in creating sauces from scratch; it's where I feel most connected to my craft.”
The Culinaire’s List is a celebration of Singapore’s vibrant culinary scene through our partnership with both Michelin-starred restaurants and hidden gems. Be updated on Singapore’s fine dining scene through our monthly editorial series, The Culinary Canvas, where we bring you the narratives of each chef, their dishes, their inspiration for a finer appreciation of their culinary creations.
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