January 2025
The number 5 (五) in Japanese underlies Chef Hirofumi's philosophy based on Japan's culinary artistry and traditions
The refined presentation of cuisine in Japan is adored by all, but the art behind the culinary preparation is an intricate process not many can accomplish.
The philosophy of Go, or five (Japanese number 五), is what forms the bedrock of its culinary traditions and practices. Stemming from the teachings of kaiseki - a traditional multi-course Japanese dining experience - this principle encompasses five elements practised and presented not only to appeal to our taste buds, but also to our senses.
Rooted in the Chinese yin-yang theory of five elements, it is not just a set of guidelines; its adherence is a reflection of the chefs’ dedication to their craft and their guests' well-being.
Notable chefs, such as Hirofumi Imamura of Imamura and Lee Boon Seng of Imbue, offer some insights on how they embody this principle in their daily practice, while giving traditions a new taste and look with their own spin.
Tradition in motion at Imamura, where the essence of “Go” is found in myriad colours and tastes
Chef Lee Boon Seng’s priority in designing a dish is to appeal to the five senses (Credit: Imbue)
Similarly, for Chef Boon Seng, appealing to the five senses is always his first consideration when conceptualising a new menu, as “all these add up to a memory being created”:
Chef Hirofumi sears the Kagoshima wagyu steak to render its fats
For both Chef Hirofumi and Chef Boon Seng, using a variety of cooking techniques is essential to a well-balanced menu. With restaurant Imbue being a deep exploration of Asian flavours, especially through sauces, Chef Boon Seng also takes into consideration the five tastes and the use of five main techniques to offer variety:
Chef Boon Seng adds that he takes up to five days to create his signature sauces. “There would be a base to which we add another. On day one, we would cook the chicken jus first, for instance, followed by beef jus on day two. On the third day, we work on the demi-glace, and from this, we would then convert it into another sauce.”
Imbue’s interpretation of Gokan (五感), the five senses
On Imbue’s menu, the “Suckling pig, yuzu ‘hoi xian’ sauce, seasonal truffle, onion potato pancake” comes with five focal points to appeal to the five senses:
Chef Hirofumi echoes the importance of using a variety of techniques to please the five senses. He adds, “We use all five techniques in each menu to take care of our guests' health. Using only one technique is an imbalance. Only deep frying, for example, promotes too much heat, so we will have dishes that are stewed, steamed, seared, and grilled in the other courses, or as complements on the same plate.”
The philosophy of five is the foundation of a formal Japanese chef’s training; the difference lies in the chef’s application and emphasis. Chef Hirofumi reveals, “When I was young, I used to place emphasis on the five tastes and colours; now, I place more importance on the five senses and five suitabilities to take good care of my guests.”
The five suitabilities (go-teki 五滴) are heat, ingredients, volume, technique, and attitude.
“We only use seasonal ingredients. For example, tomatoes are from Summer. We may use it in Autumn as it overlaps with Summer, but we never use it in the Winter and Spring menu. Why? These ingredients grow in specific seasons as the environment caters to its optimal growth for the best produce. Our bodies will absorb the nutrients from these seasonal produce and be strong and healthy.”
Imamura’s Kagoshima wagyu steak is seared from the heat of charcoal
Such is the attitude of a chef dedicated to his craft; he also takes good care of his health and hygiene with the right heart (omotenashi, meaning to look after the guests wholeheartedly). In sourcing, he goes to the extent of finding the best farmers.
Chef Hirofumi shares, “Beef is our star item. We use beef from the Kagoshima prefecture, and only from the Mizusako farm.”
He explains, “I believe in the Mizusako family because they create their own feed mixtures in their own factory.” Mizusako's Satsuma Craft Wagyu feed focuses on developing flavourful red meat with mild fat, rather than high marbling, by roasting the highest quality soybeans for their blend.
“The farmers would conduct regular health checks to monitor the cows’ condition. They would also ‘converse’ with the cows, asking if they are feeling okay, if they are hungry, etc. The care the farmers have for the cows is equivalent to the amount of care I have for my guests. I believe his cows are healthy, so I specifically use the beef from his farm.”
At Imamura, every detail of the dining experience is carefully executed (Credit: Imamura)
Washoku is the traditional cuisine of Japan based on fresh, seasonal ingredients and a harmonious balance of flavours, all of which tie back to the great Go philosophy. This social practice was inscribed in 2013 on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, notably for the New Year celebrations.
In January, festive Japanese dishes at Imamura are imbued with well-wishes. Here are a few typical ingredients, as explained by Chef Hirofumi:
For Chef Hirofumi, the philosophy of five extends to other areas of his personal life as well. “Oh, it's not only in cooking, but when I take a stroll around the Botanic Gardens or Gardens by the Bay, I try to look out for things in nature in five colours; and I'm always eating items in five colours to stay healthy.”
In embracing this Japanese principle of "Go," chefs masterfully weave together harmony, balance, and an appreciation for the natural world to create a multisensory dining experience and offer diners a journey that is as refined as it is unforgettable.
Especially for DBS Insignia Cardmembers, The Culinaire’s List is a celebration of Singapore’s vibrant culinary scene through our partnership with both Michelin-starred restaurants and hidden gems. Be updated on Singapore’s fine dining scene through our monthly editorial series, The Culinary Canvas, where we bring you the narratives of each chef, their dishes, their inspiration for a finer appreciation of their culinary creations.
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